Mairie du 18ᵉ
/Here’s a provocation. I submit the Mairie du 18ᵉ arrondissement (1888–1905) is a witty distillation of French history & culture and should be counted among Paris’ great buildings. This is the ‘city hall’ for the 18th district. It is in Montmartre, down the hill behind Sacre-Couer, at Jules Joffrin Metro station.
I don’t think anyone has written about this building at all. I don’t find much beyond the Mairie du 18ᵉ website. The architects were Marcellin-Emmanuel Varcollier (1829–1895) and Léon Salleron (1820–1904). Varcollier was a student of Baltard and a City of Paris architect.
Here are some of my simple observations:
It seems to me that the figure of the tripartite arched doors, while Roman and Italian Renaissance in nature, becomes quintessentially French when glassed-in—first seen at Vaux-le-Vicomte?
The rusticated stone base (soubassement à bossage) is also quintessentially French of course.
According to this monument, the façade is “eclectic,” with Renaissance-style pilasters and Louis XV frontons. The statues, by Gustave Crauk, represent la Liberté et la Fraternité.
Oddly, there are windows in the frieze or entablature: Is there a precedent for that? (I see a similar arrangement at Opera Garnier, on the east and west.) How do these windows relate to the spatial arrangement in section?
The pediment above the clock includes Paris’ coat of arms, discussed further below.
The main public room is simply extraordinary. I interpret the staircase as referring to both to Garnier’s Opera, and Labrouste’s Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, with the bridge & streetlamps. Behind the staircase: an interior façade to the next part of the building—how interesting!
Also note the glass floor pavers (pavés de verre) in the image above, allowing light down to the lower level.
The iron structure is clearly related to the Synagogue de la rue des Tournelles by the same architect (Varcollier) and the engineer Gustave Eiffel.
The shape and articulation of the roof recalls the grand Parisian train stations, and Gare Saint-Lazare specifically.
How many French images and feelings are projected at once! How eclectic!
The blason de Paris (Paris’ coat of arms), showing a sailing ship, has represented the city since the 14th century.
Are we seeing heating ducts in the crown moulding?
from google maps
The Mairie faces a church, which emphatically embodies la séparation des Églises et de l’État (1905). And l’église Notre-Dame de Clignancourt is neo-Romanesque, affirming the polarity. To complete the picture, the public space between them (Pl. Jules Joffrin) includes a Metro station, newsstand, and a rétro manège (carousel), plus it’s framed by four corners of Haussmann-type housing blocks—the perfect Parisian ensemble.
And there are plenty of social questions, such as: Was the 18ᵉ arrondissement especially wealthy? Or was it the City’s initiative to make Pl. Jules Joffrin an important center? This is the grandest of the Mairie I think.
